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Africa's Best Safari Guides: Follow the Leaders. In 1. 99. 2, Ralph Bousfield, his partner Catherine Raphaely, and his father, Jack, were scouting for places to set up a safari camp in the game- filled wetlands of Botswana's Okavango Delta. Their small plane crashed. Catherine emerged relatively unscathed. Ralph suffered burns over a third of his body while rescuing his father, who later died from smoke inhalation."When my father died, it was the end of an era," says Ralph of the life Jack spent soldiering and hunting and living in the remotest parts of Africa. But Bousfield, now the most prominent safari guide in Botswana, knows better than to fall into the nostalgia trap.
I'm proud of my family," says Ralph, who is descended on both sides from solid pioneer stock, "but I'm not proud of certain things that happened."Colonial style was beautiful; the colonial way was not," he continues. There was, of course, racial injustice; there was also "a huge cost to the environment." His father earned a spot in The Guinness Book of Animal Records for killing some 5.
Ralph last wrestled a crocodile so he could bring it to the animal orphanage on the grounds of his house in Francistown, where the city's schoolchildren come to learn about wildlife. Jack's demise was the fiery denouement of an age of wild- white- man individualism; it also marked the beginning of Ralph's era, one characterized by a profound sense of responsibility. Ralph's success with Jack's Camp—built on the Makgadikgadi Pans, where he grew up, and named after his father—places him among an elite group of safari guides. They are steeped in a rich tradition, yet have come of age in a post—white hunter, postcolonial environment. Together, the four guides introduced here map the safari's new terrain. Calvin Cottar, whose camp is in Kenya, is, like Bousfield, one of a long line of adventurers; if the Cottars are the Kennedys of the East African safari industry, Calvin is Bobby Jr., embracing his background as a tool, not a birthright. Ivan Carter is the brightest new safari star in Zimbabwe, a country known for its excellent guides, who are subjected to the most rigorous licensing exams on the continent.
Jackson Looseyia, part owner and senior guide of a game lodge in the Masai Mara, is nothing less than the embodiment of a historical transition: a Masai, he's the point man for a nascent conservation movement that also aims to support indigenous culture by giving tribal people a stake in the safari industry. While politics, poverty, and corruption have taken their toll on the wilderness experience, guides like these remain optimistic, committed to preserving wildlife and culture.
Thanks to the best of the new generation, the safari is far from over. Ralph Bousfield. At Jack's Camp, the element of surprise is a big part of the show. Watch The Fine Art Of Love: Mine Ha-Ha Online on this page. Ralph and I have spent the afternoon tracking cheetahs across the salt- and- algae crust of Botswana's Makgadikgadi Pans. Now, just in time for sunset, an aide- de- camp has surreptitiously set up a makeshift bar beside a water hole where a flock of migratory flamingos has also stopped for a drink.
Ralph—who at 3. 8 looks remarkably like Daniel Day- Lewis cast as a rock god—lights a small campfire, anchors a map of Botswana to the ground with a quartet of liquor bottles, and sketches an outline of Africa in the dust. He's preparing to tell me how we came to be in this strange and peaceful place in the southern part of the continent. He goes back to the very beginning—the formation of the landmass, the arrival of man, the superlake that dried up aeons ago and created the geographic anomaly that is the pan.
Just as I'm thinking this could be a long, long story, Ralph fast- forwards to the 1. He traces the progress of his maternal great- grandfather, an ivory hunter and explorer who was the right hand of legendary pioneer Frederick Selous; in the 1. Selous bivouacked not 1. Kalahari. For most of the 2. Pans remained a no- man's- land. Meanwhile, in East Africa, the Bousfield clan established itself in the wilds of Tanganyika (now Tanzania).
When the country won independence in 1. Ralph was born, his father began to feel that the region was becoming inhospitable to whites. He consulted maps of Bechuanaland (the former British protectorate, which became Botswana in 1. Watch Pillow Talk 4Shared there. He liked the blank spaces and wound up building the desert camp where Ralph has spent much of his life, and where he would found his own safari camp. After the plane crash, Ralph and Catherine abandoned the idea of building a camp in the Okavango Delta, erecting Jack's Camp on the Pans instead. The Pans were still considered by most to be a marginal area with little to recommend it to tourists.
According to Ralph, the 1. Ntwetwe Pan, one of two that make up the Makgadikgadi Pans, is "one of the longest open areas of nothing on earth." Yet, he adds, "there's so much going on, you don't know where to start." Desert- adapted animals such as cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, oryx, and the rare brown hyena inhabit the pan, but they are not plentiful; an evening game drive might consist of little more than observing the pups at the hyena den."Jack always said, 'Whatever you do, just be different,'" says Catherine, "and that's absolutely what we've done. We've tried to maintain that 'out there' thing." And they have. Jack's Camp is less about the Big Five than about the power of a silent, nearly barren landscape. At night Ralph likes to drive guests out to a dead zone—no vegetation, no animals.
He'll tell you to walk away from the jeep alone, lie down on your back, and contemplate the heavens for a half- hour or so. The next morning you might be taken to collect stone artifacts and speculate about who made them and what they were used for. That afternoon you'll go walking with a diminutive Bushman guide named Dabe Sebitola, who will give you the recipe for a local heart- attack remedy: Mix the root of a feather asparagus with the nest of a mud wasp; boil; and drink. One night you'll be taken to . I'll simply note that I watched as an uptight German septuagenarian was moved to tears by the experience.
Set on islands of bush in a desert sea, Jack's and its sister camp, San Camp, combine Saharan exoticism with Cape Town cool. Jack's is the more traditional, with eight luxurious private guest tents. Its decoration was inspired by Jack's old gear—collapsible furniture made from a teaklike wood called mukwa—brightened with colorful textiles. San Camp consists of six white canvas tents, each of which is sheltered by palm trees.
It's airy, soft, fantastical; a deliberate departure from the macho safari ethos. Catherine, a 3. 7- year- old former model with more than a passing resemblance to Cher, is in charge of the look of the camps and planning the menus. Her style- consciousness is as much a function of her background as Ralph's bush savvy is of his. Her mother, Jane Raphaely, is a leading figure in South Africa's women's magazine industry.
The recipes at both camps are all derived from the Cape Malay cuisine of Catherine's grandmother's cook. Everything we do is an extension of who we are," says Catherine. It's not a movie set."WHERE: Jack's Camp and San Camp, Botswana.
YEARS IN THE BUSH: 3. FAVORITE ANIMAL: "Brown hyenas—they're desert specialists."MOTTO: "We don't know what's out there. To me, that's freedom."Jackson Looseyia.
In a valley in the communal Masai land on the north side of the Masai Mara, Saigilu Ole "Jackson" Looseyia gets a whiff of familiar territory and heads up the hillside.